You’re not alone if you’re confused with all the lingo, acronyms, and different numbers on sun cream products… SPF50+, PA++++, chemical, physical, mineral, organic, UVA, UVB… it’s a lot! We’ve taken it on to simplify it all down for you in one blog post!
1. What is the difference between UVA and UVB rays?
UV stands for Ultra-Violet radiation which is a form of energy produced by the sun. The sun emits three main types of UV rays (UVA, UVB, UVC). The ones we must worry about are UVA and UVB rays – they produce DNA damage, cause free radicals to form and cause skin photoaging (wrinkles and dark spots). It’s helpful to know the difference between UVA and UVB as products will often refer to the different types.
UVB (think B is for Burning) are high energy mid-length waves, shorter in comparison to UVA rays. These UVB rays only reach the outermost layer of the skin and cause significant damage to living tissues and cells [1]. These are the rays that cause tanning and sunburn and are the main cause of skin cancers following prolonged cumulative exposure [2].
UVA (think A is for Ageing) are longer in wave-length and penetrate deeper into the skin layers- all the way down to the inner layers of the skin – and the precious collagen and elastin fibrils. These rays are the primary cause of photoaging. UVA rays also penetrate glass so if you’re sitting next to a glass window, you’re being exposed to UVA rays [2].
Protection against UVA and UVB are essential for any effective anti-aging skin care regime, but protection against UVB should be our first priority [3].
What does SPF mean?
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It is a measure of the ability of a sunscreen to protect against UVB rays. There is some controversy as to the period of effectiveness of SPF. It depends on how long your skin naturally takes to burn when unprotected. An SPF 30 should allow you to remain in the sun 30x longer than you would without burning.
What does PA+ mean?
The PA+ ranking system is a UVA protection ranking system that originates from Japan. UVA sun protection is ranked from PA+ to PA+++++, the more + signs the longer the effective period of protection against UVA.
Korean brands have adopted this ranking system to disclose the UVA protection grade in addition to SPF.
What is the difference between Physical and Chemical Sun creams (Mineral vs Organic)
There are different types of filters in a sun cream. Physical (or Mineral) filters reflect or disperse UV rays, while Chemical (or Organic) filters absorb and neutralise UV rays.
Physical filters sit on the surface of the skin, forming a barrier between the skin and sun rays. Physical sunscreens cover the skin in a white reflective layer often leaving a white cast but because they do not penetrate the skin they are well suited to children and people with sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions.
Chemical filters absorb UV radiation and then release it from the body as heat. Chemical sunscreens tend to have a better texture and less chance of leaving a white cast. However, due to the penetration of the sunscreen into the skin layers, they can be a source of irritation to some sensitive skin.
A note on the marketing lingo ‘Organic’ filters and ‘Chemical-free’:
The term ‘organic’ filters should not be confused with organically grown foods or plant derived ingredients. Organic filters simply refer to that the active UV ingredients contain carbon atoms.
Remember all sun creams are chemicals and marketing “Chemical-free” is just incorrect terminology. There is no such thing as a chemical-free sunscreen. The more correct terminology would be non-absorbing or physical.
Waterproof vs Water resistant Sun Creams
Water Resistant: Maintains SPF level after 40 minutes of water exposure [4].
Water Proof (very water resistant): Maintains SPF level after 80 minutes of water exposure [4].
Why Korean Sun Creams are superior
We’ve said it before that Korean skincare is better and we’ll say it again. Korean beauty culture prizes healthy, even and dewy skin. Their highly competitive beauty industry is constantly innovating sunscreen formulas to improve ingredient combinations and texture.
Texture is king when it comes to choosing sunscreens, because of how much product we need to apply for proper protection. Korean sunscreen formulations prioritise texture without sacrificing on protection. Their formulas apply easily, feel light-weight and layer elegantly onto the skin. They also tend not to leave a chalky white cast, often making it a preferred choice for people with darker skin tones.
Korean sunscreens often feature ingredients that we love like soothing cica (read more about cica or centella asiatica here) and aloe vera, brightening niacinamide, hydrating hyaluronic acid and moisturising ceramides. These multi-functional sunscreens are not just offering UVA and UVB protection, you’re also adding a layer of hydrating, brightening and soothing benefits.
References:
[1] Shai, A., Maibac, H. I., Baran, R. (2009). Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care, 2nd ed.
London, UK. Informa Uk Ltd.
[2] Lees, M. (2012). Skincare beyond the basics, 4th ed. Clifton Park, NY. Cengage Learning.
[3] Yarosh, D. B. (2008). The new science of perfect skin; Understanding Skin-Care Myths and Miracles for Radiant Skin at Any Age. New York. Broadway Books.
[4] Mann, M. W. & Popkin, D. L. (2020). Handbook of Dermatology; a practical manual. New Jersey, USA. John Wiley & Sons Ltd.
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