Moisturising is an essential step in your skincare routine no matter your skin type. It is the first step in fortifying your skin barrier, helping it effectively function at keeping the bad stuff (allergens, pollutants & environmental aggressors) out and the good stuff (water) in. Moisturising also reduces fine lines, smooths, and hydrates the skin.
With the thousands of creams and lotions out there, scoping out the right one for your skin may seem confusing. Here is the rundown: you can divide moisturisers into three categories. Humectants, Emollients and Occlusives [1]. Everyone’s ideal moisturiser lies in the balance of these categories, and not everyone needs all three. Read on to understand these three categories and to find out which moisturisers you should be using for your skin type.
Humectants, Emollients & Occlusives
Humectants (Hydrators)
Humuctants are ingredients in moisturisers that attract, absorb and bind to water, adding hydration to the skin [2]. They help your skin maintain a healthy moisture level and that desirable supple, plumped feel.
Popular humectant ingredients include hyaluronic acid, aloe, glycerin, and honey. The great thing about some of these humectant ingredients are their additional skin benefits as anti-inflammatories, antioxidants, and antimicrobials. Humectant-centric skincare products also include essences, ampoules, hydrating serums and mists.
Emollients (Smoothers)
Emollients are ingredients in moisturisers that fill in the cracks between skin cells and help smooth, hydrate, and soften the skin [3]. Emollients also possess some occlusive properties (more on that later) by preventing water loss through the skin.
Emollient ingredients include ceramides, squalene, linoleic acid (Vitamin E), mineral oils and plant-based oils like almond, argan, jojoba, sunflower, rosehip and prickly pear seed oil. Emollient centric products include creams and face oils.
Tip: Facial oils are great nourishment boosters. Adding a few drops of a cold-pressed plant oil to your current moisturiser can give it a little bit more oomph. It’s also a good idea if you have acne and your acne topicals are drying your skin out. We recommend Huxley’s Oil Light and More, a lightweight emollient rich in antioxidants and linoleic acid (Vitamin E).
Occlusives (Seals in moisture)
Occlusives are ingredients in moisturisers that are heavy, large molecules that sit on top of the skin, forming a protective layer to seal hydration in [4].
Common occlusive ingredients include beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, lanolin, mineral oils, petrolatum, plant-based butters, and heavy silicones. They are often found in rich, nourishing moisturisers and barrier-repair creams and can feel heavier and greasier than other categories.
If applied to dry skin, occlusive ingredients won’t moisturise much on their own, though they may provide some smoothing emollient effects. The true power of occlusives is experienced when applied over wet skin or in conjunction with humectant ingredients. Occlusive ingredients help dry skin receive maximum hydration benefits from humectants by sealing in the hydration and preventing the water from escaping our skin.
Finding the perfect moisturiser
The goal in finding the perfect moisturiser for your skin is to find a moisturiser that doesn’t sit heavy on your skin and keeps it healthy and hydrated throughout the day. However not so light that you should worry about re-applying it every two hours.
Oily Skin
Oily skin needs hydration, yes, even excessively oily skin. You may not realise your oily skin is dehydrated (ever experienced paradoxically oily & dry skin? That’s dehydration.) When the skin doesn’t get enough hydration, your body over produces oil to compensate which may cause your skin to become even more oily and breakout. For oily skin, this can occur during winter months or when using a drying skincare regimen.
Skin that overproduces oil is better at sealing in moisture and doesn’t need much extra in way of emollient or occlusives but will benefit from added hydration in the form of humectants. Integrating a lightweight gel moisturiser can help re-balance your skin and ultimately regulate oil production.
We recommend:
Hydrating Boosters:
Dry & Maturing Skin
When it comes to dry and maturing skin, layering is key if you want glowing and hydrated skin. It is important to have hydrating humectants and moisture sealing emollients and occlusives in your skincare arsenal. Dry and mature skin can handle thicker lotions and creams than other skin types.
Start with a humectant loaded hydrating serum, essence or toner and finish with a cream-based moisturiser. Anything with a creamy texture usually contains occlusives and emollients. Seek out barrier supporting ingredients such as ceramides, that retain moisture and protect your skin from external aggressors. Use a cold-pressed plant facial oil and an occlusive balm for extra nourishment and for treating those dry patches that may pop up.
We recommend:
Moisturising Boosters:
Combination Skin
Combination skin may battle with dry and oily patches and one can fluctuate between an oily skin day or super dry skin day. Look for products that balance the skin with a good mix of humectants and emollients. Look out for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, green tea, Vitamin E and ceramides.
We recommend:
Normal Skin
Lucky you, you have a lot of freedom when choosing a moisturiser that works for you. Go with a lightweight cream that is rich in antioxidants, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid to keep your skin well-balanced and hydrating even during seasonal changes.
We recommend:
Sensitive Skin
Essentially not a skin type, but many people claim to have sensitive skin. Extra care needs to be taken when selecting the right moisturiser. Consider three things: Firstly choose a product with a short ingredient list. The more ingredients, the greater the chance of irritation. Secondly, look for soothing, hydrating and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as green tea, honey and centella asiatica. Thirdly, avoid products with dyes, fragrances and excessive alcohol.
We recommend:
References
[1] Lees, M. (2012). Skincare beyond the basics, 4th ed. 2012. Clifton Park, NY. Cengage Learning. [2] Chao, J. (2021). Skincare for Your Soul: Achieving out beauty and Inner peace with Korean Skincare. Mango Publishing. FL, USA. [3] Thompson, K & Park, C. (2015). Korean Beauty Secrets: A Practical guide to cutting-edge skincare & makeup. 2015. Skyhorse Publishing. [4] Viera-Newton, R. (2021). Let’s Face It: Secrets of a Skincare Obsessive. Little, Brown & Company. New York.
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